18 Nov 2011
Not a bad day. We started out at the Domaine de la Romanee Conti. There are very few vintages from the Domaine which are disappointing these days and 2010 was certainly not one of them. The line up showed very well (compared to lots of reduction at other Domaines). DRC placed their Corton (new vineyard for them) first even though it’s more masculine than the Echezeaux. I guess it is the new kid on the block, therefore multiple vintages may need to pass before it hits it’s stride. Fantastic wine, but quite a bit lighter in weight than the others. A big improvement from the source’s previous owner (who would have thought?). Echezeaux, Grands Echezeaux and La Tache were the most expressive. The GE had huge amounts of sap and expansiveness yet light on it’s feet. RSV was understated and classy, but a bit reduced. The Riche was a huge step in weight and brawn, but even more reduction than the RSV. LT was brilliant and surprisingly expressive. The shy Romanee Conti is such a treat to taste, so highly nuanced and subtle. “Like a woman,” Bernard said. We ended with ’99 and ’91 Echezeaux, which I thought were ’97 and ’93. I was amazed at the slight over-ripeness of the ’99, although I suspect that will dissipate with air…
Our next stop was to one of my favorite Domaines in Burgundy: Mugneret Gibourg. Their 2010′s (as all vintages for the past 4+ vintages) were bright, fresh, balanced wines that are true to each terroir. I can’t think of another Domaine that produces such high quality village wines. Bring on the parcels! The Chambolle Feusselottes, Ruchottes and Clos Vougeot were my favs, however all wines were some of the best examples of their vineyard I can think of. It’s interesting that many Burgundy collectors are not enthused by Clos Vougeot and Echezeaux as they’re such large vineyards with multiple holdings. If one takes the time to seek out the top producers/parcels these two vineyards can be some of the best wines of the vintage as is the case with Mugneret Gibourg.
Dujac was the 3rd stop of the day. The ever so gracious Jeremy Seysses greeted us after just returning from Asia for the extremely impressive acker auction. The line up was rather hard to taste as many of the wines were quite reduced. I like to think I had my picks, but too hard to decifer. We tasted 09 Chambolle, Malconsorts and Clos de la Roche from bottle. Each were wide open and singing. The 09s are ripe, but have such a purity and balance. The CDR will make old bones and may well be Jeremy’s best wine to date..
Off to Leflaive, Henri Germain, Lafarge, Montille, Liger Belair, Cathiard, Mugnier and others. Les bon moments!
-Posted by Justin Rutherford, San Francisco